Integrity to others vs. Integrity to Self

There's a ruthlessness in the choices I make. Up until recently, I haven't felt particularly negative about the life choices I've made: separating from the U.S. government, moving in with my mom, working part time for a reduced salary, and making it known I prioritize situations where I have an avenue to the mountains. Until recently. I gave someone my word and then I broke it. Circumstances changed between when I gave my word and when I decided I had to break my word. It was a choice between keeping my word, which I value as a part of what I believe is a characteristic I have: deep integrity, and another conflicting characteristic I have, which is commitment to my true self. So my true self is someone who will break her promise to ensure a way to make it easier to get into the mountains. Integrity ranks lower in my personality scale than being unfettered and uncommitted to convention. Sounds paradoxical and hypocritical right? Commitment to myself and my desired lifestyle over commitment to integrity and trust.

I wrote the above post three months ago. The funny thing about this life, is I'm eating my words. I've committed now to moving out, reducing my expendable income. I'm okay with that. Two months ago I summitted a mountain where the uncertainty of even going to the top were paramount on just the last 140 feet of the summit's ridge. I was stoked - it meant the higher peaks of the Himalayas were a possibility. And if I could fit the pieces of training, income, interesting work for income, experience, and partnerships - none mutually exclusive - that goal was attainable - and with patience - maybe in even a couple years.

This dance...

I'm this restless energy, that wants to dance in the mountains, on ropes and my partner never begrudges me this dance. This partner faithfully belays me, cleans the gear, and sets the ropes for us to return to earth. And I realize how grateful I am, to this partner who never says no when I ask to dance on ropes, on mountains, even when my partner is in pain.

This partner who asks me about dancing down mountains, what shoes shall I wear?

This partner who asks me to dance the biggest mountain we ever encounter, so big we must sleep three nights in her cool arms and not feel thirst until we start the descent down her flanks in the beating southern sun.

And this partner who asks me to dance in these mountains, I have seen distantly, dreamt of, or heard terrifying tales of. These mountains this dance with ropes and wax slicken-ed sticks. This dance to connect, to feel how little I am, how big I am, how big we are, how infinite, expansive, and how limitless we can be.

And we're caught up - 2013!

This was a particularly challenging year - good and bad - maybe I'm accepting more - maybe I'm learning the best place to find my lightened moments is to stop avoiding my dark times.

January - Back from Montana - go on a few trips with good friends to New Hampshire to ice climb. Starting to see cracks in the recent caulking of my romantic relationship.

February - Committed to not just 'running away' - trying to solve the problems in the relationship. It was tough, but I'm glad we did it. Did a couple ice climbing trips to lighten the heaviness.

March - Acknowledgment and realization set in. Went to another life mind-set changing clinic - for skiing at the invitation of a caring friend in Alta, UT.

April - Went back to Utah, this time to climb at Indian Creek with two amazing women friends. Loved being in the desert in an amazing setting.

May - Went to the New, helped my high-school best friend prepare for her wedding - honored to be part of her ceremony.

June - Went to Peru with the family. For two weeks. It was the biggest challenge - being in an amazing country with amazing peaks and learning how to enjoy the moment, just looking at them, and nothing more :)

July - HERA Climb4Life! Third year in a row. Trained for a return to higher, more committing climbs.

August - Continued training - lots of pitches and days at Seneca, ended the month with a wet climbing trip to New Hampshire at Cannon Cliff.

September - Off to Seattle - hardest climb that made me use every ounce of mental, physical, emotional commitment and a lot more spirituality than I would've believe to go car-to-car in four days, with no water source for the first three days. Left the mountain still good friends with my partner.

October - Enjoyed fall climbing among the turning leaves in the East. Swore since my main objective of the year was complete, I didn't need to push myself. But still managed to get on a few climbs I couldn't get to the top of :) and that was ok.

November - Returned to Indian Creek. Fell, injured settled in for recovery. Sigh. Note to self to not ignore the voice coming from my belly - asking me how a 5 pitch desert tower at 5.10 was an appropriate rest day activity with a two hour approach on either end? Oh well, learning not to take it so hard on myself.

December - Focused on recovery, studying, although got in a couple ski days at the local Pennsylvania resort - despite physical therapists admonishment. Tried ice climbing again end of the month. Had a little bit to go before back in my usual condition and shape.

2012 in Review

2011 was a year for big transitions, from not working, to the anxiety of being jobless and needing the security of a salaried gig.

2012 - was perhaps about getting more settled - and perhaps seeing after I wrote the summaries - of giving myself healthy doses of mountains:

January - Ice climbing for New Years, and the long weekend holidays. It was nice to spend that time on the road with good friends.

February - Itching for adventure, especially after a marathon run of Banff Mountain Filmfest screening at the National Geographic, hopped on a plane with all my ice climbing equipment, prepared to beg, bribe, and sweet talk my way into ice climbing partnerships. Luckily, the IME icefest organizers let me squeeze into two fantastic clinics with Freddie Wilkinson and Mark Synnott. Went to Utah to ski- Snowbasin and Snowbird. Maybe I should have taken that as a sign my itch to be in the mountains would not be appeased.

March - Epic ski trip to Hokkaido, Japan. Amazing backcountry/side-country skiing - open bowl skiing followed by long soaks in mineral hot springs. Unfortunately blew my knee on my fourth day out. I had stretched it out plenty by trying to rid myself of a cold I caught on the flight over. Unfortunately returned a couple days earlier to seek medical treatment.

April - Yea - back in physical therapy. Got into a relationship. Did my annual international film fest binge in D.C. Took a pretty amazing climbing clinic that changed my head - Trad Mental Camp.

May - Gunks, New York City, a small turbo prop flight where they promoted me to captain and promptly fell asleep - thankfully the co-pilot was on it! My first visit to Oregon, sea-side whale sightings, Wilmette Valley Pinot Noir, micro-brews in rainy Bend, Smith Rocks climbing.

June - With a bum knee, started taking opera singing lesson. Yes, opera singing lessons :) Please don't ask me to sing though.

July - Rockclimbing in North Conway, mostly Cathedral. Fighting urges to flee a relationship - learned about working it out like adults, being vulnerable and not blaming.

August - My journey into alternative therapies, catalyzed by a surprise allergic reaction and lack of immediate specialist appointment, sought the acupuncturist. Got the first glimmer of hope I could recover my right ankle to climb harder, longer, and go back to mountaineering/ alpine climbing.

September - the usual Fall climbing, weddings, quick East-side trips.

October - Went to Yosemite - awesome to return and climb! Met some amazing people in an amazing setting. Inspired, totally inspired.

November - A few bits of local climbing - with locally born and raised climbers - enjoying the changing of the season, family-time.

December - took off on a one-month unpaid sabbatical to Montana. Drove through the northern states. Spent time in Bozeman for the icefest, climbing in Hyalite Canyon, and then the rest of the time in Big Sky, skiing at Moonlight and Big Sky. Finished out Christmas in Wyoming, skiing at the epic Jackson Hole.

The years have passed and where have my 'plans' gone ...

The old years in review. I'm sometimes surprised how long I've stayed in one place. Going back the to San Juans of SW Colorado rekindled something in me - maybe that promise to take off West. I cried for an hour the day after my plane left. I was secretly hoping United would have cancelled my flight and I would've had to stay in SW Colorado another day or two. But it didn't so here are the years I didn't post

2011 - What a doozy, when my great road trip ended and life back in the rat race began.

January - spent a month in the San Juans of SW Colorado - predominantly living in Ouray. On the way stopped in West Virginia Snowshoe for some night skiing and the Bourbon trail in Kentucky. Our next stop was in Denver at a friend's, and then a stop in Breckenridge, and then some godforsaken Motel 6 - maybe just outside of Grand Junction, on the way to Ouray. Discovered backcountry powder skiing at Red Mountain Pass, took ski lessons at Telluride, spent a few days with friends in Crested Butte. Took a five day hut tour among the Burn and Ridgeway huts in the San Juans - became so hooked on backcountry skiing - swore to learn to ski all kinds of mountain terrain in any and every condition, and probably never come back to Colorado just to ice climb.

February - returned to the Front Range, stayed another night in Denver, checked out Loveland, a second time at Breckenridge and Copper Mountain. I drove back through a Rocky Mountain snow storm. Eventually left the storm in Kansas city. Crashed in St. Louis. Drove straight to D.C. A week after Valentine's day got dumped.

March - Started earnestly looking for a job. Interviewed and accepted a job as an outdoor climbing instructor for REI. Started the dance to get a salaried office job. Ice climbed in the Adirondacks and fell of the second pitch of Multiplication Gulley, a 240' New England ice climb. Began the saga of right foot restoration. Went back to Crested Butte. Craiglisted a ride from Denver to Buena Vista, skied at Arapahoe Basin, met two road-tripping friends and skied at Crested Butte for a few awesome days.

April - rock climbed with friends back in the mid-Atlantic. Did some pre-employment training. Accepted an offer from the big company.

May - started work at the big company. Worked a lot. Went on a few climbing trips to the Gunks and the New River Gorge.

June - Lots of work - went to Atlanta for a brief moment.

July - First year participating in HERA Climb4Life

August - Lots of employer subsidized rehabbing the right ankle and a broken heart.

September - Trip to climb Mt. Shuksan, Washington - realized the foot may not heal the way I hoped.

October - Lots of volunteer climbing events, for Wounded Warrior, spent time at Seneca Rocks, Red River Gorge, had lots of fun - did some easier fun climbing.

November - Continued to appreciate being back home and seeing good friends.

December - Returned to the Front Range of Colorado - Vail specifically - in a fairly low-snow season.

Accident Report: 11/9 Sister's Superior Tower Jah Man Grade II 5.10

Here's my chance to live my words. I put this on the new forum created by the decades old Potomac Mountain Club. I e-mailed it to friends who weren't members of the Potomac Mountain Club. Will I submit this to the Accidents in North American Mountaineering? Haven't decided. I was encouraged by a climbing friend to post it on Facebook - which has seemed to kill the blog - but this is too long for Facebook.

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I hurt my left foot and got whiplash symptoms in my neck and shoulders. After driving the 4wd .5 miles to a pull out in the wash and a 1 hour and 40 minute approach (we started at 7 am) we were at the base of the popular desert tower climb Jah Man (pronounced Yah Man), five pitches, Grade II, 5.10c. I started the first pitch (5.9/5.8+) and found the climbing surprisingly greasy and not well protected (it was a 50' pitch or shorter and I placed one offset nut, (2) 3, and (1) 4 camalots. My right hand even slipped off the hand traverse but thankfully my left foot and left hand were able to keep me from falling off. I finished at a block slung by tat on a ledge and brought Erin C. up. Pitch two was the 5.8+ chimney pitch. The crux was getting into the chimney by laybacking a triangle shaped off-width block. After realizing I was still too big to squeeze through the block into the chimney, I placed a red Metolius master cam about seven feet up from the belay ledge just right of the flake in a crack and then a small blue Alien cam a foot above it. Heel hooking to get myself on top of the sloping slippery flake I grasped at the inside of the chimney trying to find a way to transition into it. In the middle I tucked my feet under my hips almost straddling the flake. I stood up on the flake. There was no pro at my head height and at this point the alien was at my feet. My vision started started to focus on a smaller and smaller span of rock in front of me while my mind screamed, 'no fall zone! jump into the chimney!' Grasping at a small sloper on the right side of the chimney I attempted to make the move but the next thing I know, I'm riding the triangle flake down, desperately squeezing the flake with my legs on both sides to slow down the fall before I toppled backwards off it as it sharply ended. I probably hit another section of the flake and almost came down on Erin. Her belay stopped me as the alien held my hips less than a foot off the ledge. If climbing has slapstick, this was a hilariously awkward and strange fall. Rattled and feeling urgency as a group of seven French climbers started up the first pitch behind us, Erin took over the lead. After it was my turn to climb I told Erin, "I think my left foot is f*ed up," She asked if I wanted to bail, I told her I would continue climbing and see how I felt. The climbing felt fine, maybe it was adrenaline, endorphins or both but my foot felt okay, not 100% but not pained by climbing. Erin finished the rest of the pitches of Jah Man (5.8+, 5.10c, 5.10, 5.10). I followed. We finished with lunch on the ledge with the French climbers who's party we ended up in the middle of, rapped on their ropes and hiked back the less than 2 miles to the car, did a wine tasting and ended up back at the condo at 4:15 pm, to watch the sunset from the windows. We might have to do the climb again as neither of us had a chance to slap each other with high-fives between pitches exclaiming, "Jah Man!"

Post Doctor's Visit Analysis: I have a sprain in my left foot and a cyst in the joint cartilage. I'm scheduled for an MRI as an x-ray doesn't show fractures in the smaller bones.  I can walk but at 80% of the pace I do now, boots are uncomfortable, and I have constant but diminishing pain. I can climb top rope, but I can't run or jog (or dance in heels - found that out by Saturday morning!). Hiking seems to be okay. I was also tested for a concussion. I don't remember hitting my head or back or neck and I was wearing a helmet, but 28 hours after the incident, I had a headache at the base of my skull and tight shoulders and neck. Given my lack of focus the following day, the doctors believe I had some sort of mild or less severe concussion. I'm still processing the fall, but I think a few factors played into it 1) having my confidence shook by my near fall on the first pitch 2) being overconfident because the last two days we had been on harder graded climbs at Indian Creek 3) fatigue from climbing harder routes the previous two days 4) instead of being focused on where I was with my feet on the slippery rock, fixated on getting into the chimney (a lapse of attention at the moment). At this point the only thing I can think of doing differently is being more aware of where I was standing and making sure I was comfortable on my feet and taking a good look around. When I TR'd the pitch, it was smooth and not nearly as difficult as I had made it out to be on lead (easier said on top rope as always!). Perhaps taking a rest day before climbing the route after two hard days of climbing might have been wiser too.

Dying time

Climbing deaths - happen.  There are articles and even books written about it.  Healing and closure after the death of a close friend is a personal thing, it is also very much within the public sphere when it happens on public lands.  The results are important to the community to reinforce,  learn and remind us what we do for the sake of fun and spending time with like-minded friends, also reminds us how mortal we are.  If you receive the annual Accidents in Mountaineering you know this.  To tell people not to discuss the death of a fellow climber seems tantamount to enforce the 'forgetting' of the event and telling people to accept only certain versions of the truth from particular people is in disservice of the deceased.  Swallow your pride, death will get the better of us in time.  Death is hard, I've seen it happen to two of my close climbing friends - frankly, the discussion post-death helped me heal and understand how and why they died, and what for.  If I died doing something I was passionate about, I would hope those I shared a rope with and a love of the mountains learn something - not enforce a  'silence' period.  There is little respect in such action because it is rooted in protecting what we fear to know about ourselves and our community.  What do I know?  I'm alive, but I would think better of imposing my will on others, and just because someone 'knew' someone does not accord them any extra special powers to silence others.  For those of you who are healing, death hurts the living most.  I'm sorry you are in pain, the suffering also reminds us we are alive, and mortal.

new obsessions

Have begun this year, which will make the whole 'saving money' New Year's resolution a little difficult. It started with a introduction to ice climbing in January with members of the Potomac Mountain Club (also known as the Mountaineering chapter of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club). A couple weekends later I made a long drive with two firefighters on MLK day weekend for two days of trying to be as graceful as our guides while ascending ice water falls. Knowing I was in for some fat paychecks with my upcoming deployment, I spent ridiculous amounts of money for what people were told me were the 'top-of the line' in personal ice climbing equipment. I took these fresh out of the package tools and boots up with me to Whistler, British Columbia in March, hoping for late-season ice, but alas it rained, and much had come down. So it wouldn't be until next year.

Although I had my obsession from the previous year, trad rock climbing to get me out of city and chasing up rocky pillars while D.C.'s prolongued summer (practically into November) to keep me occupied, I confess, when in October the weatherman warned of the first frost, that night I went to sleep and dreamt of ice.

In fact earlier this month, I was in Hawaii for a work trip (rough I know), after hearing my sister abandoned housesitting for me and left my cat alone, plus the phone call to hear it was snowing, I dreamt again that night of ice (of ice covering Carderock of all things!) and booked my plane ticket home early. Of course I was being silly both those times.

This past weekend I booked a trip to the Adirondacks to introduce my sister to ice climbing with help from guides. What should have been a nine hour drive, turned into a 12 hour drive. Sunday was practically balmy at the crag, and my new tools and new crampons went into the ice like a knife into room-temperature butter. By the afternoon, we a had a steady light drizzle and one of our next climbs, involved a few 'mixed' moves (on rock and moss). My gore-tex shells were completely wet (thankfully keeping me very dry). After a moment of contemplating the ice, a bit slushy, under the 3mm deep waterfall, I plunged up and ahead. We were all ready for some dry clothes, a warm room, blanket, and a mug of a hot drink and quickly bailed off that first pitch. My sister did not want another watery escapade the next day so we cancelled the second day with a promise to be back after the New Year. I almost went back this weekend but with the forecast still warm for the north country, I stuck it out here.

'First Ascent' trailer

FIRST ASCENT DVDs on sale now at www.senderfilms.com First Ascent, the highly acclaimed new film from Peter Mortimer and Sender Films, is now for sale on DVD. In his follow up to the award-winning Return2Sender, Mortimer has created a movie about the legendary routes that have never been climbed – and the dirt bag heroes that climb them. First Ascent is a global romp with climbing’s modern-day pioneers, from the sea cliffs in Thailand to the high Himalayas, and from the scary depths of the Black Canyon to the buildings of Hollywood. Big laughs, huge falls, hopes, fears and truly radical feats.

catching up on July

Mt. Whitney Trip Report:

(Originally written Monday, July 31st, 2006)

I am exhausted! Have you ever found your feet swelling after returning from altitude? I don't know if its from the trauma of hopping 6,000 feet of boulders in 4 miles or if its all the bloat-y drainage from being at altitude settling into my feet.

It was awesome. The Whitney area is super beautiful. We had some unexpected weather, lightning and thunderstorms every afternoon around 2 PM, which ruined many of our more ambitious plans. Saturday we camped at 8,000 feet and all of us did pretty well. Sunday our goal was to hike to Iceberg lake somewhere around 12,600 feet but we were slower moving than expected. My pack was the lightest at 59 lbs whereas our leader got the prize for the heaviest at nearly 80 lbs (although you'll have to check with him). Around 3 PMish after leaving Lower Boy Scout lake which I think was somewhere between 9 and 10,000 feet we encountered rain and lightning storms so we ended up camping at Upper Boy Scout Lake, which is about 10,300 feet I think. Monday we decided to summit Mt. Russell, but due to some route finding issues we didn't find the Eastern pass until the afternoon. Just like clockwork, at 2 PM thunderheads rolled in and we scree-skied back to Upper Boy Scout Lake. Tuesday we decided to be more chill, wake up at a luxurious hour and the hike to Iceberg Lake at 12,600 feet. That was the toughest hike as it was mostly scree and talus fields with a few places slick from the glaciers melting (and getting around some glaciers).

Once at Iceberg we had an awesome view of Mt. Whitney, the minor peaks and the climbing routes. We got some beta from climbers coming off the Mountaineer's Route, East Buttress and East Face. Thankfully, there were quite a few who told us how to get around the snow coming down the Mountaineer's Route. Wednesday we would be the only ones climbing East Face. The two Erics were team one to go first on the East Face with Reed, Ross, and myself following. Wednesday we hiked up the talus field about 600 feet to the start of the East Face climb. The first pitch was airy! Talk about a crazy drop off. We also found out a Whitney 5.6 chimney was not as easy as we thought it would be on the first pitch with sparse protection. The Erics (Bosch and Richardson) pretty much flew up the first six pitches. By the time our three person team had gotten to pitch number 6 right before the Fresh Air Traverse, the Erics we re on pitch 10, three pitches shy of the 3rd class scramble to the summit. Then what we had prayed and hoped would not happen, we saw the clouds, lightning, and unfortunately a full out hail storm. The Erics hunkered down and had somehow gotten off route, while Ross, Reed and I made the decision to rappel and down climb back the way we came. We had about four rapels down and Reed lead the down climb which was part of pitch 1, which was on the more difficult ones, but since we knew the route from before it was pretty fast. Unfortunatley night came too soon and our last rappel was in the dark, trying to stay as close to a corner because any movement to the left would mean a huge swing and an even more difficult time getting back on route. We then scrambled down to base camp where the Erics were waiting for us with hot drinks and burritos. The Erics summitted around 5 PM and took the Mountaineers route down arriving at camp at 6:30 P M, only to see our three headlamps after dark making our way down the first pitch and approach. What an adventure :0!

Thursday we took it easy, recovered, while Ross summitted via Mountaineers Route. At 1:30 Eric and I set off from camp with the other three following for the parking lot, 4,000 feet below us through scree and talus fields. We made it back to our vehicle around 8:30 PM, went to the Mt. Whitney Restaurant for beer and hearty food and spent the night at the Mt. Whitney Motel in Lone Pine. Friday we were still pretty much in recovery, went to the Lone Pine Cafe for breakfast and then went to see the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, which was pretty neat. We stayed in Lancaster that night and Saturday morning, prior to their departure, went to Santa Monica beach.

We were all okay! I would definitley do it again, but this time with more trad leading experience under my belt. The prophylactic Ibuprofen went over really well. My only problems were allergies from the meadows blooming at altitude and in general I was moving slower than usual. Thank you for e-mailing me to see how things went.

seneca crag log 4th of July weekend

Saturday evening myself and another climber headed to Seneca Rocks in West Virginia. When we arrived in town, we found plenty of climbers but not the 13-20 person group we were looking for. Note to self: always print the e-mail confirming the campsite! Luckily, we spotted the trip leader coming into town and he showed us the way. The next morning I found myself a trad leader and we went up Green Wall (5.7) in three pitches. The second pitch was pretty sweet, a crack for protection and a narrow face that kept giving back the slight overhangs. Summiting the south peak, I practiced making anchors and placing gear. After lunch, I lead Old Ladies Route (5.2), probably the easiest way to get to the East summit. The third pitch was hairy, the climb was easy but it was along a chimney with very few spots for placing gear. The entire pitch I probably placed only three pieces of pro so it felt like free climbing. Thankfully it was not as windy as the first time I went to Seneca.

crag log, red rocks Nevada (Vegas baby!)

After resting Sunday from the adventures in Utah, Sunday I met up with a guide from Jackson Hole Mountaineering Guides. Three years ago, I came to Vegas with girlfriends and we did the usual: gambled, partied, saw a Cirque du Soleil show, drank, danced, saw the Hoover dam, and then the not so typical: sky-dived and took a hike into Bureau of Land Management's (aka Bureau of Livestock and Mining) Red Rock Canyon and I found myself drooling at the climbing routes in the beautiful red sandstone of Vegas's best-kept secret. Being impaired with a tender ankle, my guide and I forgoed Froglands which had the more strenuous approach and aimed for Dark Shadows, a four-pitch 5.8 which we did in three pitches, the last being the shortest. Super fun, the rock was super slick, steep, and black looking but the fissures provided some of the best crack-climbing ever. After rapelling one pitch, my guide let me have a go at Slot Machine (5.10c) which I got up only half way with a lot of help. We lowered down one more pitch where I climbed another sweet crack, a 5.9/5.8 who's name I've forgotten.

crag log: seneca

After barely hopping off the plane from Austin Thursday night, I stuffed my backpack full of camping goods to climb Seneca. We took off Friday afternoon and arrived at Princess Snowbird campground around 10 PM. With an early start on Saturday, my partner assured me that no matter what I was going to summit Seneca. We started with three pitches on Ecstacy (5.7) Saturday morning, had no problems on the first and second pitch but found the crux decidedly over-hangy. We traversed over for my climbing buddy to lead a three pitch slimy crack, Marshall's Madness (5.9) while I belayed and watched the double ropes dance in the fierce wind. Afterwards, we made our way up Banana (5.6), and made the final two pitch push to the summit on Gunsight (pic below--5.3). With the insane wind trying to suck us off the crag the nerve factor made it feel like an '8. After summiting we enjoyed a beautiful view of the valleys on either side. We took the Stairmaster down to the base of Seneca, which unfortunatley made my already sprained right foot tender for the next morning. Sunday we did the first two pitches of Skyline Traverse (5.3) which was oodles of fun, I was supposed to lead and plug in my shiny new pro but with the ankle I was discomforted. Sunday afternoon made it back to D.C., unpacked the backpack and started throwing my climbing clothes in the laundry . . . .

day three

You know I'm going to miss Austin. I've had an awesome time. When I said goodbye to my travel companion/colleague this afternoon, I admit I was a bit sad, thinking well there goes company. But I had climbing to look forward to. Originally I booked a guide through Aspire Adventures, but due to schedule changes I had to make last second alternative arrangements and was iffy about the whole thing anyway (you know strangers, sprained ankles, etc.). But the whole experience exceeded my expectations. It just reaffirmed in general rockclimbers are super cool warm friendly down-to-earth people (despite the vertical acrobatics we like to display while scaling impossibly sheer-looking cliffs). Through a local of a friend of a friend, I was hooked up with several UT Austin rockclimbers and we headed to Greenbelt. Being guys they were intent on pushing their limits and for a warm-up linked up a couple 5.9's. Even though I have never even cleaned a 5.9 much less completed one, they were super encouraging and the limestone was great. The downside, the mosquitos loved me and I forgot only 99 % DEET works in woodsy areas. Afterwards, in repayment to my new friends and their beta with a round of drinks, I was treated to some great Mexican, Polvo's. Awesome.

Last night I had barbeque at Stubb's, but I am tempted to say I've had better BBQ in D.C., the hightlight of the night was a seeing a rock-bluesy band at Nuno's on 6th St. who polished off their set with one of the most awesome rendition of Jimi Hendrix's Voodoo Child. Hell yeah, I'm down with the blue dot in the red state where bumper stickers commonly say, "Keep Austin Weird."

compulsive disorders

I think I'm getting addicted to rockclimbing. Like I CAN'T WAIT TO GET OUTSIDE and climb. Work, school, and even social events like parties and keeping up with friends over dinner have become a hindrance and nuisance to my climbing schedule. Last year I started out by promising myself at least a few hours of climbing each week. Most of the time I ended up climbing one day during the weekend and one night after work during the peak season. This year I seem to have met some hard-core climbers who are spreading their infection to me. Already I've devoted at least one 1/2 a weekend day to climb. I'm already trying to put in as much after work climbing and think getting into work at 5 AM to jet at 1:30 PM is not a bad idea if I can get some rock under my skin!

I'm hoping part of this is an effort to make sure I'm well prepared, mentally and physically to meet the rigors of climbing the highest mountain in the lower 48 states come July. Mt. Whitney will decide whether I pursue moutaineering.

the wash out

I lead my first climb today!!!!!!!!!!! Wooooooohhhhhooooooooooooooooo!

I'm super psyched only because I always thought you had to be a really awesome climber to lead(which I'm not). Admittedly it was a beginner route I lead (5.4), however I seconded a 5.8 and then flailed on another 5.8 (and almost broke my forearm--it's kind of gross, I did sort of a vertical arm bar that pinched my flesh to the bone, surprisingly no skin broke) trying to go over a wet drippy roof.

We were supposed to go to Seneca this weekend but it was a total wash out. For a bit we were climbing in the rain this morning, but around noon, the sun peeked out. Even though it was foggy and visibility was non-existant, the climbing areas on Sugar Loaf were beautiful; one is called 'Middle Earth' and in that mist, you could sincerely believe you were Frodo's companion. I know I'm a cheeseball LOTR geek.

last sunday

I screwed up Daylight savings time. A friend I was meeting to climb with at 7 AM called at the time saying she was going to be there five minutes late. I was still in bed. I ran out the door in 10 minutes knowing I still had a 1/2 hour drive before hitting Great Falls. Unfortunately I ran over a curb with my rear right tire. Partly down GW Parkway, my car started shuddering like there was a helicopter trying to land on its roof. I pulled over to an overlook and saw I had a thoroughly shredded and blown rear right tire. I pulled out the jack and lifted the car, but could not for the life of me get the lugs off. A couple strangers offered to help and I asked the last guy to help pull of the lugs and he walked me through changing the tire. I made it Great Falls by 8:30, did Splinters clean for the first time :) although only using the left approach, not straight up. I also climbed Lost Arrow (5.10+). Yeah, not free climb, but I learned to climb via its original method, aid climb. Afterwards I treated my car to some new tires and windshield wipers, my tummy to some Moby Dick's, and a nice nap once I got home.

2006: The Year of

Adventure, yeah that's what I've decided! I mean it has to be right? Within the first week of the new year I did my first trad climb (following) on Table Mountain, South Africa's (and possible the entire African continent's) distinguished climbing spot. So that means I'm packing my vacations with adventure in mind. Thus the training has began.

The new Earthtreks in Rockville was where I first started because of the blasted cold conditions. Pretty cool brand-spankin' new gym. Has a more extensive bouldering cave than the older gyms in the area (actually I'm only comparing it to Alexandria SportRock), really tall climbs, most routes longer than what you find in Great Falls and Carderock, and lots of challenging routes. At first I thought they graded their routes to hard but hah, that could've been just me out of shape.

A couple weekends ago when it wasn't so chilly we did our first outdoor climb of the season in Seculsion and Romeo. It was a great day for all of us, we ambitiously started out saying we were going to warm up on the 5.7's and make the most of the availability in the park. In reality, our winter-ed arms and shoulders could only handle three routes: Snowflake (5.6), Great Beginnings (5.7) and Romeo's Ladder (5.8). After that we've been tackling overhangs and roofs ... we should be in prime shape to tackle everyone's nemesis from last summer: Cornice in Great Falls.

Yeah, so you thought this was going to be a great post, but really it was just my climbing log. Not so afraid of the bouldering cave anymore and starting to work out roof/overhang problems on 5.8's at the gym.

Hopefully this will prepare me for July.

Belaying on Table Mountain

South Africa 05-06 134
Originally uploaded by ScelestiX.

Third pitch, traverse, yeah, we're way up there.

Crag log

Last Wednesday (not this past one but before that) I went climbing at PATC's Carderock Wednesday. Became more smooth on Sterling Crack. Tuesday morning before I left for my trip I hit Great Falls and finally finished my nemesis: Romeo's Ladder, woohoo! Also attempted a 5.10 crack to the left of it but 2 feet from the anchors figured out why it was a 5.10. Right now I really miss climbing, there's not a bouldering site or crag to be found in this barren wasteland. I made some pretty good progress on those days and can't wait to tackle Splinters again, also Cornice. Hopefully my arms won't have deteriorated too much.