catching up on July

Mt. Whitney Trip Report:

(Originally written Monday, July 31st, 2006)

I am exhausted! Have you ever found your feet swelling after returning from altitude? I don't know if its from the trauma of hopping 6,000 feet of boulders in 4 miles or if its all the bloat-y drainage from being at altitude settling into my feet.

It was awesome. The Whitney area is super beautiful. We had some unexpected weather, lightning and thunderstorms every afternoon around 2 PM, which ruined many of our more ambitious plans. Saturday we camped at 8,000 feet and all of us did pretty well. Sunday our goal was to hike to Iceberg lake somewhere around 12,600 feet but we were slower moving than expected. My pack was the lightest at 59 lbs whereas our leader got the prize for the heaviest at nearly 80 lbs (although you'll have to check with him). Around 3 PMish after leaving Lower Boy Scout lake which I think was somewhere between 9 and 10,000 feet we encountered rain and lightning storms so we ended up camping at Upper Boy Scout Lake, which is about 10,300 feet I think. Monday we decided to summit Mt. Russell, but due to some route finding issues we didn't find the Eastern pass until the afternoon. Just like clockwork, at 2 PM thunderheads rolled in and we scree-skied back to Upper Boy Scout Lake. Tuesday we decided to be more chill, wake up at a luxurious hour and the hike to Iceberg Lake at 12,600 feet. That was the toughest hike as it was mostly scree and talus fields with a few places slick from the glaciers melting (and getting around some glaciers).

Once at Iceberg we had an awesome view of Mt. Whitney, the minor peaks and the climbing routes. We got some beta from climbers coming off the Mountaineer's Route, East Buttress and East Face. Thankfully, there were quite a few who told us how to get around the snow coming down the Mountaineer's Route. Wednesday we would be the only ones climbing East Face. The two Erics were team one to go first on the East Face with Reed, Ross, and myself following. Wednesday we hiked up the talus field about 600 feet to the start of the East Face climb. The first pitch was airy! Talk about a crazy drop off. We also found out a Whitney 5.6 chimney was not as easy as we thought it would be on the first pitch with sparse protection. The Erics (Bosch and Richardson) pretty much flew up the first six pitches. By the time our three person team had gotten to pitch number 6 right before the Fresh Air Traverse, the Erics we re on pitch 10, three pitches shy of the 3rd class scramble to the summit. Then what we had prayed and hoped would not happen, we saw the clouds, lightning, and unfortunately a full out hail storm. The Erics hunkered down and had somehow gotten off route, while Ross, Reed and I made the decision to rappel and down climb back the way we came. We had about four rapels down and Reed lead the down climb which was part of pitch 1, which was on the more difficult ones, but since we knew the route from before it was pretty fast. Unfortunatley night came too soon and our last rappel was in the dark, trying to stay as close to a corner because any movement to the left would mean a huge swing and an even more difficult time getting back on route. We then scrambled down to base camp where the Erics were waiting for us with hot drinks and burritos. The Erics summitted around 5 PM and took the Mountaineers route down arriving at camp at 6:30 P M, only to see our three headlamps after dark making our way down the first pitch and approach. What an adventure :0!

Thursday we took it easy, recovered, while Ross summitted via Mountaineers Route. At 1:30 Eric and I set off from camp with the other three following for the parking lot, 4,000 feet below us through scree and talus fields. We made it back to our vehicle around 8:30 PM, went to the Mt. Whitney Restaurant for beer and hearty food and spent the night at the Mt. Whitney Motel in Lone Pine. Friday we were still pretty much in recovery, went to the Lone Pine Cafe for breakfast and then went to see the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, which was pretty neat. We stayed in Lancaster that night and Saturday morning, prior to their departure, went to Santa Monica beach.

We were all okay! I would definitley do it again, but this time with more trad leading experience under my belt. The prophylactic Ibuprofen went over really well. My only problems were allergies from the meadows blooming at altitude and in general I was moving slower than usual. Thank you for e-mailing me to see how things went.

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alive

A snapshot of my Whitney attempt, do you see me behaving much like a yellow-bellied California marmot?

Actually I got further on Whitney than that, this was the day after. Story to come.