There's a raging debate going on in DC's small climbing community. A new management plan for Great Falls is underway that if agreed on will limit the usage of Great Falls as a climber's haven. The proposed plans involve 1) maintaing the status quo OR 2) (which is recommended) a) installing anchors for climbs b) control access through permitting c) closing some climbing sites.
I think installing anchors is a good idea that will benefit the park and climbers. Many times I've seen trees that have been gnarled, particularly in heavily used areas like Aid Box because they've been used as anchors. Also I've seen too many climbers make improper anchors and installing hardware will make it safer for climbers and reduce environmental impact. Although the weekends are crowded, I'm not sure about controlling access through permitting. Right now I think first come first serve suits everyone well. As for closing climbing sites, I only think two are in consideration: Sandbox and Dr. Needlepoint. Which I suppose if they are temporary closings with some access for climbers I don't mind so much. Also, I've never been to Sandbox so I guess you can't miss what you haven't experienced.
There are some good points though in the discussion. For example, why are climber's being targetted when the park is more heavily trafficked by hikers, tourists, and the like? Simple things like permitting one car in when car goes out in super busy times seems to solve some problems concerning overcrowding. Anyway, if you are a climber and care about climbers, the meeting to discuss the proposed plan will be on the 17th of September (Saturday) from 1 to 3 PM at the Great Falls Visitor's Center. Come out, enjoy a morning of climbing and then make your voice heard!
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